Every spot in Pavia has its story. A Romanesque church welcomes the remains of Sant’Agostino. A Basilica witnesses the coronation of Federico Barbarossa as King of Italy.
Pavia is most visited because of the exceptional Charterhouse of Pavia just outside the town and one of the finest examples of renaissance architecture in Italy, but Pavia itself also has a rich artistic heritage. It is a challenge to see all the interesting buldings in a short visit but by careful planning you have the chance to visit the best art and architecture of the city.
In medieval times Pavia was known as the ‘city of a hundred towers’. Although not many of these towers now remain there is still a great deal to enjoy as you explore the narrow streets of the historic centre, including numerous churches and pretty small piazas, the castle and the cathedral.
HIGLIGHTS
Pavia’s most famous landmark is the Certosa, or Carthusian monastery, founded in 1396 and located eight kilometres (5.0 miles) north of the city.
Among other notable structures are:
- Cathedral of Pavia (Duomo di Pavia): Construction of the cathedral began in 1488; however, only by 1898 were the façade and the dome completed according to the original design. The central dome has an octagonal plan, stands 97 m high, and weighs some 20,000 tons. This dome is the third for size in Italy, after St. Peter’s Basilica and Santa Maria del Fiore in Florence. Next to the Duomo were the Civic Tower (existing at least from 1330 and enlarged in 1583 by Pellegrino Tibaldi): its fall on March 17, 1989, was the final motivating force that started the last decade’s efforts to save the Leaning Tower of Pisa from a similar fate.
- San Michele Maggiore (St. Michael Major): This church is an outstanding example of Lombard-Romanesque church architecture in Lombardy. It is located on the site of a pre-existing Lombard church, which the lower part of the campanile belongs to. Destroyed in 1004, it was rebuilt from around the end of the 11th century (including crypt, transept and choir), and finished in 1155. It is characterized by an extensive use of sandstone and by a very long transept, provided with a façade and an apse of its own. In the church the Emperor Frederick Barbarossa was crowned in 1155.
- Basilica of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro (“St. Peter in Golden Sky”): In this church, St Augustine, Boethius and the Lombard king Liutprand are said to be buried. Construction was begun in the 6th century. The current construction was built in 1132. It is similar to San Michele Maggiore, but different in the asymmetric façade with a single portal, the use of brickwork instead of sandstone, and, in the interior, the absence of matronei, galleries reserved for women and the shortest transept. The noteworthy arch housing the relics of St. Augustine was built in 1362 by artists from Campione, and is decorated by some 150 statues and reliefs. The church is mentioned by Dante Alighieri in the X canto of his Divine Comedy.
- San Francesco d’Assisi: This is a late Romanesque church (1238–98) with a restored Gothic façade, located on Corso Cairoli.
- San Teodoro: This church dating to 1117 and dedicated to Theodore of Pavia, a medieval bishop of the Diocese of Pavia, is the third. albeit smaller, Romanesque basilica in Pavia. Situated on the slopes leading down to the Ticino river, it served the fishermen. The apses and the three-level tiburium exemplify effective simplicity of Romanesque decoration. Inside are two outstanding bird’s-eye-view frescoes of the city (1525) attributed to Bernardino Lanzani. The latter, the definitive release, was stripped off disclosing the unfinished first one. Both are impressively detailed and reveal how Pavia’s urban layout has changed little in 500 years.
- Castello Visconteo: Built in 1360-1365 by Galeazzo II Visconti, this large castle served as a private residence rather than a stronghold. The poet Francesco Petrarca spent some time there, when Gian Galeazzo Visconti called him to take charge of the magnificent library which owned about a thousand books and manuscripts, subsequently lost. The Castle is now home to the City Museums (Musei Civici) and the park is a popular attraction for children. An unconfirmed legend wants the Castle to be connected by a secret tunnel to the Certosa.
- Santa Maria del Carmine: This church is a well-preserved example of Gothic brickwork architecture in northern Italy. Built on the Latin cross plan, it is the second largest Pavian church after the Duomo, with a perimeter of 80 x 40 meters comprising a nave and two aisles. The characteristic façade has a large rose window and seven cusps.
- Santa Maria di Canepanova: This renaissance octagonal church is attributed to Bramante.
- The medieval towers still shape the town skyline. The main clusters still rising are rallied in Piazza Leonardo da Vinci (three towers), Via Luigi Porta (two towers), and in Piazza of Collegio Borromeo. These towers are closed to the public.
Start your visit in the south of the town at Borgo Ticino, which is a good introduction to historic Pavia. Here you will immediately notice the 12th century Church of Santa Maria di Betlem, a typical example of Pavia Romanesque style.
Next cross the Ticino River using the ‘Covered Bridge’ (this bridge was entirely reconstructed after bombing in World War II) and enter into the heart of Pavia city and along Strada Nuova.
On the right you can see the 12th century Church of San Michele, in a wonderful Romanesque style and also historically important because it was here that the coronations of the Kings of Italy once took place. The facade is exceptional, with a central portal richly carved and dating from around 1120.
Inside the church there are several frescoes including The four Evangelists by Pier Francesco Sacchi, as well as some paintings by Guglielmo Caccia (known as Moncalvo).
Returning to Strada Nuova and continuing along Via Cardano you can see the Church of San Teodoro, an example of Romanesque architecture made of mixed brickwork and masonry. The interior is divided in three naves and with a beautiful 14th century fresco showing Pavia in 1300. In this church there are also many paintings attributed to Carlo Sacchi.
Leaving the Church of San Teodoro, go back along Via Cardano to Strada Nuova. Continue as far as the crossroads between Corso Cavour and Corso Mazzini – whichever direction you take from here there are some fine examples of art in Pavia. Head along Corso Mazzini and straight on to Piazza della Vittoria and then turn left to find the Cathedral and the ‘Broletto’.
Pavia Cathedral was started in 1488 by Christopher Rocchi, and its construction continued by other great artists, including Bramante, Francesco di Giorgio, Giovanni Antonio Amadeo and Gian Giacomo Dolcebuono. The cathedral was only completed in the early 20th century. The inner space of the cathedral is grandiose and imposing, accentuated by Latin archs and high pillars.
Until its collapse in 1989, which killed several people, one of the most impressive medieval towers in Pavia stood next to the cathedral.
Opposite the cathedral entrance is an equestrian statue of Marco Aurelio (or Septimius Severus) while next to the Duomo there is the 13th century Palace of the Broletto – impressive outside, and with a very spacious interior enhanced by the presence of Roman archs.
Turning back towards Corso Mazzini, continue once again along Strada Nuova to find the University of Pavia and the Renaissance courtyards with a long succession of loggias, colonnades, statues and inscriptions.
Leaving the University, continue along Via Roma and passed ‘Via 20th September’ to find the 14th century Church of Santa Maria del Carmine, with a magnificent façade of brickwork with a great central rose window and the pilaster strips which come unlaced as they rise the high pinnacles.
Return towards Strada Nuova and towards the Via XI February. On your right-hand rises the Castle of the Visconti [Castello Visconteo] and on your left is the Church of San Pietro in Ciel d’Oro.
Pavia Castle
Pavia Castle was erected between 1360 and 1365 by Galeazzo II Visconti with the help of Venetian architects, Bernard from Venice and Jacobello Dalle Masegne. The architectural aspect of the castle is extraordinarily rich in artistic forms, and dominated by galleries with mullioned windows and perforated rose-windows.
Today the castle at Pavia is also home to the Civic Museum, which brings together artefacts from the oldest discoveries in Pavia. You can also see more artworks in the Pinacoteca Civica which includes priceless works of art by Antonello da Messina; Correggio (a “Holy Family”); Pier Francesco Mazzucchelli (the ‘Adoration of the Magi), as well as many others.
Pavia Charterhouse (Certosa di Pavia)
No visit to Pavia would be complete without a visit to the the famous Carthusian Monastery known as the Certosa di Pavia in the countryside a few kilometres from the city and the most impressive example of renaissance architecture in the region. Founded as a monastery in 1396 most of the building dates from the 15th century.
First among the highlights is the façade, executed between the 15th and 16th century and which represents a high point of Renaissance art. The facade incorporates many decorative elements, in particular carvings of the apostles, prophets, saints and Roman emperors as well as the pilasters and friezes that are typical of the renaissance style.